Date: April 2025
Category: Voices of Saudi
This month, I had the pleasure of reconnecting with Afroditi Barmparousi—a Greek native and cultural infrastructure specialist who was living in London before trading city life for the tranquil beauty of AlUla. Her work supports the preservation and growth of Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site, and her stories were just as captivating as the sandstone landscapes she now calls home.
Our conversation took place over Skype, with her two cats, Sandy and Dune, making casual cameos throughout. Afroditi shared how she was initially hesitant to accept the role—like many expats, she couldn’t find much honest or current information online about what life in Saudi Arabia, particularly as a woman, would actually be like. But a conversation with a trusted archaeologist and her love of cultural heritage convinced her to take the leap.
AlUla, a place I’ve personally visited a few times and always felt a certain energy in, seems to have truly captured Afroditi’s spirit. She spoke about the remote beauty, the peace that surrounds her, and the deeply connected community that’s formed in this far-flung part of the Kingdom. We laughed about movie nights with her projector, talked about animal welfare and local initiatives, and reflected on what it’s really like to be a woman living and working in Saudi Arabia.
One of the most important takeaways came at the end of our chat—Afroditi’s reflections on being a woman here. When she first considered the move two and a half years ago, she struggled to find balanced, up-to-date insights. Most of what she read online came from jaded travelers or stories that no longer reflect the rapidly changing reality of life in the Kingdom.
But after living and working in AlUla, she shared this:
“I have not experienced fear. I haven’t felt that anyone has been condescending or limiting. I haven’t had to change who I am, how I speak, or how I work—at all. I’ve felt completely free to be myself, just as I would in any other country I’ve lived in. Women are out and about, leading, creating, making moves. The idea that women are restricted in Saudi Arabia—it’s just not what I see, not in my daily life, not in my work. It’s important to say this, because when I was making my decision, I couldn’t find anyone saying it.”
Afroditi’s advice to other expats? Come with an open mind. The challenges are real—especially in remote places—but the rewards are richer. Her journey is a powerful reminder that sometimes the most unexpected moves bring the deepest personal and professional growth.
Grateful for this honest, heartfelt conversation—and for the way our Southern in Saudi community keeps growing. I hope to make a trip to AlUla in the coming months to delve deeper into the incredible work Afroditi and others are doing to preserve and elevate the region’s cultural heritage—and to continue the conversation we’ve only just begun. Until next time, I’ll be dreaming of AlUla sunsets and the stories still waiting to be told.
Inspired to visit AlUla yourself? Here’s everything you need to know to plan your trip:
🧭 Travel Tips: Visiting AlUla
Thinking about making your way to one of Saudi Arabia’s most breathtaking destinations? Here’s your quick guide to planning an unforgettable trip to AlUla—where history, culture, and raw natural beauty come together.
📌 Table of Contents
- Where is AlUla?
- How to Get There
- Where to Stay
- Best Time to Visit
- More Things to Do
📍 Where is AlUla?
AlUla is located in the northwest of Saudi Arabia, in the Medina Province. It’s home to Hegra (Saudi’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site), dramatic sandstone mountains, and centuries of preserved heritage. AlUla is a true open-air museum, and yet it feels peaceful and untouched.
✈️ How to Get There
By Air: AlUla has its own airport (ULH), with regular flights from Riyadh, Jeddah, and Dammam. Flights are short and usually under two hours.
By Car: You can also drive to AlUla—about 7–8 hours from Riyadh or 4 hours from Medina. The drive is long but scenic if you’re up for a road trip.
By Tour: Many guided tours are now available, especially during peak seasons like Winter at Tantora.
🏨 Where to Stay
Shaden Resort – A beautiful resort tucked against sandstone cliffs with a luxurious desert vibe. Great for a splurge.
Habitas AlUla – An eco-luxury resort with stunning views, sustainability at its heart, and a wellness-centered experience.
Cloud7 Residences – A more affordable option, perfect for families or longer stays with a modern, comfortable setup.
☀️ Best Time to Visit
October through March is the best time to visit AlUla. The weather is cool, perfect for hiking, stargazing, and exploring heritage sites. Avoid summer unless you’re ready for extreme desert heat.
🌄 More Things to Do
Beyond the UNESCO ruins, there’s a lot to see and experience:
- Hegra – Saudi’s answer to Petra, and a must-visit for any history lover.
- Elephant Rock (Jabal Al-Fil) – A natural rock formation that glows beautifully at sunset.
- Old Town AlUla – Wander through mudbrick buildings, shop local crafts, and sip Saudi coffee in a restored heritage village.
- AlUla Oasis Trail – Walk through palm groves and irrigation canals that have sustained life here for thousands of years.
- Art Installations – Visit Maraya, the world’s largest mirrored building, and catch rotating art and music events.